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WARSAW
Elektoralna
and Chłodna
A perfect fall
walking tour
October - November 2012
Witold Pilecki
An Auschwitz volunteer
All Saints’ Day
Experience one of the
country‘s treasured
traditions
N°71
Poland - 5zł
(w tym 8% VAT)
UK - £5
EU
(excl. Poland & UK)
- €3
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1641-5264
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CONTENTS
4
Contents
Arrival & Transport
12
The Basics
17
They aren’t the most glamourous streets in the city, but
Elektoralna and Chlodna are home to plenty of the city’s
best (and often strangest) stories, landmarks and legends.
We guide you step by step on a perfect fall walking tour
through the heart of the city in our feature on page 8.
Culture & Events
20
Where to stay
28
Dining
36
History
76
Cafés
62
Sightseeing
What to see
Nightlife
64
79
Palace of Culture and Science
93
Old Town
94
Praga
96
Warsaw Uprising
98
Jewish Warsaw
102
Treblinka
105
Łazienki
106
Wilanów
108
Chopin
111
Copernicus Science Centre
114
Leisure
116
Łódź
120
Directory
Shopping
122
Directory
128
Maps & Index
City centre map
131
Volunteering to go to Auschwitz? The idea sounds crazy,
but Polish soldier Witold Pilecki did just that, and spent
nearly three years reporting on the atrocities happening
inside. His story takes a sad twist during the Communist
era, and today the city is searching for his burial location in
order to properly honour this hero. Find out more about his
extraordinary life on page 31.
City map
132
Country map
134
Street index
136
Listings Index
137
Feature Index
138
Warsaw
In Your Pocket
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FOREWORD
6
It’s officially fall in Warsaw, which is truly a great time
to explore the city. But while the tourist buses and
roving packs hit up the well-trod streets of Krakowskie
Przedmiescie and Nowy Swiat, we’re directing In Your
Pocketeers to the hidden gems of Elektoralna and
Chlodna for the ideal fall walking tour. Stories on these
streets range from that of the ill-fated priest Jerzy
Popiełuszko to the site of the famous bridge that once
connected the small and large ghettoes during World
War II. Happy, sad, and straight up bizarre, these tales
will make any visitor feel like they’re experiencing an
often-unseen part of this historical city.
This is also a great time to partake in one of Poland’s
most interesting and sombre holidays: All Saints’
Day. While most of you use November 1 to recover
from a post-Halloween hangover, the Poles dedicate
this day to fondly remembering the dead by visiting
their graves and adorning them with all manner of
candles and flowers. A trip to one of the city’s many
graveyards is highly recommended, especially at night,
where visitors will delight in this serious (and seriously
impressive) occasion.
Despite all the history and tradition in this city Warsaw
is quick to adopt new trends, and one of our favourites
is the explosion of new burger joints that have spread
across the city. If you’re a fan of a two-handed meal
then you’re visiting at the right time, with popular spots
like Barn Burger and Lokal.Bistro winning accolades
for their massive patties and leaving customers
with a long (but worthwhile) wait for a seat. Should
temperatures take a dip while you’re in town then seek
out the awful-sounding (but wonderful tasting) hot
beer. Poles delight in keeping warm via a piping pint
packed with spices like clove, cinnamon and other
mulling spices that will warm you to the core.
As always we sincerely hope you enjoy your time
in Warsaw and the guide we have put together.
Be sure to like us on Facebook (facebook.com/
warsawinyourpocket) and follow us on Twitter (Twitter.
com/warsawiyp) for all the latest on what’s happening
in the city, and you can leave comments about all
the venues listed here (and more) on our website at
inyourpocket.com/Poland/warsaw. And of course
we welcome your direct feedback at editor_poland@
inyourpocket.com
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In Your Pocket
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Editor
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Research Manager
Anna Hojan
Researchers
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Events
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ELEKTORALNA & CHŁODNA
8
the theatre crowd gather to discuss opening night, and
it’s not rare to find stars of Polish screen and stage
hunched over beers while shaggy dogs sit in their midst.
Don’t be surprised to walk in on impromptu poetry slams,
or a performance by experimental bands answering to
names like ‘The Crazy Pierogi’. The only thing missing:
their liquor license.
Etgar Keret’s House
E-2, ul. Chłodna 22/ul.
Żelazna 74.
Across the street from Chłodna 25 you’ll
find the location for what is one of the thinnest homes in
the world (we’re not kidding: opening the refrigerator door
would necessitate standing in another room). Designed by
architect Jakub Szczęsny, the steel-framed construction
will be finished with Styrofoam and plywood with its wid-
est point being 133cm and its narrowest just 71cm. The
Israeli writer Etgar Keret, for whom this has been built, will
use it as a home in Warsaw and when he is out of town,
the installation (it has been listed a piece of art as it has
no building licence) will act as a studio for visiting artists.
Keret is an interesting character in himself. The son of a
Polish Jew who spent 3 years of the war hiding from the
Germans in a compartment under the floor of a Warsaw
house, Keret sees this project as an ‘external eye’ on
Warsaw and its cultural landscape. He wants to show that
Warsaw is a lively and multicultural city totally at odds with
the image created by the Ministry of Education in Israel
who he feels indoctrinate Israeli youth in a ‘pilgrimage of
hatred’. The location is also significant. Found on what
was the border between the large and small ghettos of
WWII Warsaw, the building can be found perched between
a Communist era block and a pre-war tenement which
is meant as a comment on the neighbourhood’s divided
past ‘The buildings were not touching each other which is
symbolic of the ignorance during the Communist period’
says Szczęsny. If a symbol was needed for the district this
surely should be it in our opinion.
A Footbridge of Memory
D-2, Intersection of ul.
Chłodna and ul. Żelazna.
S ta n di n g on th e c orn er o f Zela zna
and Chlodna is the “Footbridge of Memory” memorial, two
giant metal poles connected across Chlodna by wires. This
is the location of one of the most recognisable images of
the Warsaw ghetto: the footbridge that connected the small
and large ghettos. At night the wires light up and create a
virtual bridge in the exact location of the former ghetto bridge.
The poles also have viewing windows where visitors can flip
through images of life in the Warsaw ghetto. By now you’ve
also probably noticed the pavement outline that symbolizes
the ghetto’s borders, which can be found on the sidewalk as
you tromp down Chlodna.
Oberża Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem
E-2, ul.
Żelazna 68.
M ore o f C h łod na’s J ewish c on n e c ti ons later,
next up is a visit to Oberża Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem
(Under the Red Hog Inn). The story’s a good one: in 2006
workers uncovered the remains of a secret underground
eatery frequented over the decades by all the communist
baddies you’d ever think of - Mao, Lenin, Castro and
Brezhnev to name but a few. Unearthed were a stack of
medals, uniforms, manuscripts and menus, so this being
capitalist Poland a plan was hatched to restore the res-
taurant to its former glory and make a mint from touting
it as the all-singing commie experience. Of course, the
story itself is a load of poppycock, and nothing more
than a cheeky PR stunt pulled by the management. But
it was enough to fool the journalists and a legend was
born. Now it’s an intrinsic part on any tour of Socialist
Poland, as well as jolly good place to dine on Tito Boar,
aspic and pig’s trotters. Yum!
The major sights in Warsaw need little introduction to the
visitor who has already chalked up a few days sightsee-
ing in the city. But there’s more to the city than cobbled
squares and palaces on lakes as a little detour just to the
north west of the central station will reveal. We’ve decided
to give the lesser known and quite frankly in places, pig
ugly, streets of Chłodna and Elektoralna a look to discover
some sights rarely highlighted by guided tours but which
are fascinating none the less. The following sights have
been presented in an order to allow you to visit each in
order as you pass from west to east.
This walking tour starts at the western end of ul. Chłodna
and brings you back towards the centre. Trams stop at the
nearby junction with ul. Towarowa (D-2) and one sugges-
tion might be to walk back to the centre via this route after
having visited the nearby Warsaw Uprising Museum.
Warsaw Trade Tower
D-2, ul. Chłodna 51.
The first
point o f call on your tour is at one o f Warsaw’s unavoidabl e
landmarks - the Warsaw Trade Tower. Completed in 1999
this 208-metre skyscraper stands out as a masterpiece in
a city not short of latter-day architectural marvels. Tower-
ing over all its immediate neighbours the Trade Tower was
originally christened the Daewoo Centre, before financial
disaster saw it sold off to the highest bidder (US$100 mil-
lion) in what was then the biggest purchase transaction in
Polish real estate history. Characterized by its cylindrical
shape and odd angles it’s a breathtaking piece of work,
and equally impressive from the inside. The interior design
was apparently inspired by art deco Chicago, while hi-tech
ga d getr y i n cl u d es som e o f th e q ui ckest el evators i n E u rop e
- 35 seconds to the 41st floor.
Meridian
E-2, ul. Chłodna 48.
Onwards down the street
and you’ll be quick to note that the tower stands out like a
shark in a paddling pool. Surrounding it is practically noth-
ing, just a stretch of grubby looking car service centres. It’s
only as you reach the intersection with ul. Wronia that signs
of regeneration become apparent. Straddling the corner is
the Meridian apartment block, a flashy gated community,
located on the site of a former engineering factory. This is
planned to be the first of many aimed at regenerating this
quarter of town. Featuring a two-level underground car park,
Japanese garden and marble lobby you couldn’t wish for a
sharper contrast to what is found opposite.
Chłodna 25
E-2, ul. Żelazna 75a (entrance from ul.
Chłodna).
Facing the Meridian apartment block is Chłodna at
its worst - a darkened pre-war tenement flanked by low-level
prefabricated buildings selling hammers, spanners, mops
and tyres. Then, lined up like tin soldiers, there’s enough
bars to pu t your tour in seriousl y danger o f being terminated
earlier than expected.
Things improve as you reach the junction with ul. Żelazna.
Just before it you’ll find Chłodna 25, one of the finest
establishments of its kind. Opened in 2004 this is where
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Taste polish tradition
an invitation from
U Fukiera, Warszawa, Rynek Starego Miasta 27,
tel. 022 831 10 13, tel./fax 022 831 58 08
www.ufukiera.pl
asta 27,
8
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